Cotton wax is essential for the efficient processing of cotton fibre into spun yarn. It provides a lubricating layer that reduces fibre-to-metal friction and therefore fibre breakage during mechanical processing. The downside is that this layer also acts as an impermeable barrier to the entry of water and dye molecules into the fibre. For successful, even dyeing - this barrier must be removed by scouring and/or bleaching.During the early 1990s, the Cotton Research and Development Corporation (CRDC) commissioned fibre-to-fabric trials to examine the effect of plant variety upon spinning ability, yarn properties and dye uptake variability. While the trials found that variation in dye uptake was due predominantly to a combination of fibre maturity and fineness (linear density), which are largely environmental effects, it was strongly suspected that the cotton wax on some varieties had an effect upon dye uptake, due to the wax on some varieties being more difficult to remove than others.

The issue of the wax content of Australian cottons has been raised in more recent times by local and international dyers and finishers alike, and from spinners of Australian cotton who sell yarn into knitting markets. It's a particularly vexing issue, especially as it relates to how the wax levels of varying Australian cotton plants contribute to dye uptake variability - most notably in fabrics that undergo limited preparation before dyeing.

The costs to dyers and finishers can be counted in terms of product claims, e.g., fabric returned from a customer due to uneven dyeing, and/or the cost of implementing costly scour procedures before bleaching to ensure the removal of wax and consistent dye uptake is achieved.